A slice of tradition

Moist, rich fruitcake is always a tasteful treat

By John Lehndorff
News Dining Critic

Alas, poor fruitcake, we knew you well.

Called pannetone in Italy, stollen in Germany, Scandinavian raisin bread, twelfth-night cake in England, Welsh funeral cake, Dundee cake in Scotland, Kentucky bourbon cake and rum cake in the Caribbean, these nut-and fruit-packed loaves were respected and served at the most special occasions.

Now, fruitcake has fallen on hard times, especially in the United States. In some towns, obscene Christmas Day events are held which involve hurling and otherwise ridiculing and abusing young loaves. It has become the quintessential dreaded Christmas gift and the object of humor on late night TV shows. It has rubbed off on us. In a 1992 survey of 1,000 Americans concerning the most appropriate use of fruitcakes, the top suggestions were "a gift for someone else" (38 percent), "birdfeed" (17 percent), and "a good doorstop" (13 percent).

Such wanton disrespect and waste of food seems out of proportion. It neglects the truth that millions of loaves of fruitcake are baked each year in this country and happily consumed — sometimes in a closet — by those of us who crave a slice, especially at this time of year.

Fruitcake has even gone high tech, even as the basic baking technique has remained unchanged for 500 years. Even shy or trendy folks can furtively order on the Internet from a flock of fruitcake Web sites. You can find a world of artisan baking flavor at www.monasteryfruitcake.com, www.gramsfruitcake.com, www.contemplation.com, www.trappistmonks.com, www.missmelba.com, www.collinstreetbakery.com, and www.rumcake.com. The Romans appear to have been the first fruitcake makers; their cakes included pomegranate seeds, pine nuts, and raisins. Fruitcake was carried on the Crusades because it would keep on long trips. As for the shiny cherries, food historians credit the invention of candied fruit in 1555 to physician and prophet Michel de Notredame — otherwise known as Nostradamus. Since the late 1700s, birthdays, weddings, holidays and most celebrations in Europe and the United States have included fruitcake. Many wedding cakes still have a top dark fruitcake layer — called the Bride's Cake — which was taken off, stored and then tasted on their anniversary by the couple.

No doubt some fluorescently hued bricks have been foisted off on consumers mislabelled as "fruitcake." But most of those making a joke out of this dessert wouldn't know a great piece of fruitcake it it fell from the heavens and broke their foot. (See, even sensitive fruitcake defenders have a sense of humor ... sometimes.)

Good fruitcake is NOT an oxymoron. Good moist, rich fruitcake is made from the finest ingredients including freshly shelled roasted nuts, sharp sweet citron, dates, cherries, candied orange peel, raisin and top shelf liquor to moisten, flavor and age them.

This season, if you should be lucky enough to receive a fruitcake and you aren't willing to give it a good home, do a good deed. Drop the loaf off at your neighborhood senior center or residence. Catch a glimpse of the nostalgic joy in the eyes of folks for whom fruitcake is THE taste of Christmas.

And on National Fruitcake Day, Dec. 27, I recommend celebrating by baking a loaf of French Fruitcake. The recipe that follows was posted at www.allrecipes.com.

French Fruitcake

© cup candied orange peel

1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup golden raisins

11/2 cups and 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 cup butter, softened

1/2 cup white sugar

2 tablespoons and 11/2 teaspoons honey

2 eggs

1 tablespoon and 11/2 teaspoons light cream

2 tablespoons dark rum

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

Toss the candied orange peel, walnuts, and raisins with 2 tablespoons flour. Set aside.

In a large bowl, cream the butter with the sugar and honey. Beat in the egg, then the cream or milk, rum, and vanilla. Stir together the remaining 11/2 cups flour and the baking powder; beat into the creamed mixture. Stir in the fruits and nuts. Turn the batter into a greased and floured 9- by 5-inch loaf pan.

Bake in a preheated 350 degrees oven for 10 minutes. Lower the heat to 325 degrees. Bake the cake 45 minutes longer, or until it tests done with a toothpick. Transfer to a rack to cool. Makes about 12 servings.

December 10, 2000