| The federal hold on Colorado Huge government land ownership defines state By Bill Scanlon Denver Rocky Mountain News Staff Writer
FEDERAL LAND OWNERSHIP IN COLORADO, ACRES
Total land area: 66.4 million
Total federally owned lands: 24.2 million
Forest Service: 14 million
Bureau of Land Management: 8.4 million
National Parks Service: 527,000
Bureau of Reclamation: 480,000
Army: 182,000
Navy: 60,000
Fish and Wildlife: 33,000
Department of Energy: 30,000
Corps of Engineers: 28,000
Air Force: 27,000
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Ranchers can run cattle on it but can't build on it.
Skiers can ski on it, but resorts can't build lodges on it.
You can hike it, bike it and fish, water ski and snowmobile on it. With the right permits or political clout, you can even mine it or log it. But you can't buy it.
It's all federal land, a giant 34 percent swath of Colorado, 24 million acres of forest, stream, mountain and sagebrush, an area the size of Indiana.
Federal land owernship is higher in Colorado than in all but eight other states, all of them in the West.
What created this legacy that sharply defines Colorado?
Unrelenting land exploitation in Colorado's first few decades as a territory and a state led presidents, Congress and federal agencies to put a giant federal handprint on its land.
After 100 years of giving away Colordo's public lands for farming, dams, railroads and development, federal agencies are intent on preserving what's left. Not in the pristine condition favored by the Sierra Club but kept from intense economic development.
Contrast Colorado with states such as Texas or Ohio, where virtually all land is privately held, and permission is needed to hike, fish, picnic or wander.
Colorado once was all federal land after the United States acquired much of it from France and Mexico and seized the rest from American Indians. In the mid-19th century, settlers and railroad barons began acquiring pieces for their own.
By the time Colorado became a state on Aug. 1, 1876, miners, homesteaders, ranchers and railroad men were scrambling over prairies and mountains.
Each new wave chose the most tillable land, the best grazing pastures, the richest veins of ore. Then they found a way to pry the land from the federal government. Settlers streamed into Colorado because land and water were free and plentiful.
The federal government gave away hundreds of acres at a time to anyone willing to go west and farm them. The Homestead Act of 1862 was the first of the land-giveaway laws, followed by the Desert Lands Act and the Timber Culture Act.
It was the era of exploitation, an ethic that prevailed for almost a century.
Ranchers who had no intention of farming acquired land under the acts so they could graze sheep and cattle on the grasslands.
Railroad barons exploited the federal government's eagerness to give its land away. Men like William Palmer acquired checkerboard patterns of land from a compliant Congress so they could lay tracks, then sell adjoining land for settlement, which in turn would spur use of the railroad, said David Halaas, chief historian for the Colorado Historical Society.
Without water, farming was fruitless in much of arid Colorado. So a law giving first water rights to the most senior users was crucial.
Land owners and developers helped push through the Reclamation Act of 1902, under which most of the huge dams that dot Colorado and the West were built.
But millions of acres of public land remained, too high or dry for anyone to make a living on it.
"The demand from the public for the use of the land was so infinitesimal" in the 19th century, said Tom Dougherty, spokesman for the Colorado branch of the National Wildlife Federation.
"Some guy from Cheyenne could go out and hunt antelope on the public lands, and it was no big deal for the rancher or anyone else."
The tide started to turn around the start of the 20th century, said David Getches of the Natural Resources Law Center at the University of Colorado.
"The federal government realized that people were going out there and not settling down, and not developing minerals or stock," he said. 'They were clear-cutting all the timber and moving on, or overgrazing while moving their cattle through in huge numbers. They'd move them from Texas to Canada, like locusts, devastating the place."
Public sentiment grew to put land off limits from unbridled exploitation.
In 1905, chief U.S. forester Gifford Pinchot and President Theodore Roosevelt set aside 148 million acres of new forest reserves. Included were 14 million acres of national forest in Colorado.
In his famous "Pinchot Letter," the chief forester outlined his philosophy. Forests would be managed by professional foresters, guaranteeing a sustainable yield to ensure that trees would be there for future generations. Pinchot believed the forests first should benefit the general public -- the little man in need of lumber for a house or maybe just a walk in the woods, not the big man in need of clear cuts for his lumber company.
But clear-cutting nonetheless became common practice, and annual timber harvests grew from 1 billion board feet a year to 11 billion.
Finally, in 1976, the National Forest Management Act declared that the forests would be managed for the greatest good for the greatest number of people.
That meant forests would be culled, not clear-cut, so they would last forever. And the interests of others -- hikers, bird-watchers -- would be considered.
"The days of those thousand-acre clear cuts are gone," said Colorado Division of Wildlife director John Mumma. "The American public has become much more conscious of what happens on public lands. The Endangered Species Act, the Clean Water Act all say you've got to evaluate your activities and their impacts on resources and people."
Through the decades, U.S. presidents have exercised their authority to protect public lands from development, and Congress often has howled. Just recently, many in Congress lambasted President Clinton for designating the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument in Utah.
"It's great sport for all the presidents to use their authority to protect public lands as much as possible," Getches said. "Congress kicks and screams, and then five years later brags about how many lands were protected under their watch."
But how the battles have changed.
Ski resorts once could expand unchallenged. But in 1993, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers nixed plans for the Adam's Rib ski resort near Vail because developers would destroy 48 acres of wetlands. Vail's expansion is proceeding -- around protesters -- only after the Division of Wildlife and the Forest Service were satisfied that the plans minimized damage to wildlife.
There are 100 times more elk in Colorado now than a century ago, 90 times more deer. A century ago, there were just a handful of turkeys, pronghorns, bighorn sheep and moose in Colorado. Now there are healthy populations of them all. Peregrine falcons, river otters and greenback cutthroat trout also have re-emerged.
"The public lands are the ultimate refuges for our wild animals," said Charles Wilkinson, who teaches natural resources law at CU.
Clear-cutting of thousands of acres of national forest once was commonplace.
But in 1991, in Sand Bench near Pagosa Springs, developers and environmentalists wrangled over whether one tree in 13 could be harvested from 777 acres of old-growth forest, surrounded by 40,000 more that are off limits to logging for at least 50 years.
In 1999, the greatest threat may not be loggers, miners or cattle -- it might be us, said Dougherty of the Wildlife Federation.
Last year, 3.4 million people visited Rocky Mountain National Park, the jewel established in 1915 at the urging of naturalist Enos Mills. A year ago, Colorado Ski Country U.S.A. reported 12 million skier days -- all of them on national forest land. There are 60 million recreational visits to Colorado's national forests each year.
"The public's lust for their land and a place to go is increasing at an alarming rate," Dougherty said. "The land can take only so much demand.
"This hue and cry in communities on the Front Range for more open space is a signal that there are not enough public lands. The desire for openness and seeing nature in its own element is tremendous."
Said Getches: "We'll continue to have battles over how protected we want our public lands to be.
"But I don't think we'll see any decline in the quantity of land that is federally owned. I don't think people want that. And I don't think state or local government wants that either.
"They make noises about it, but when they crunch the numbers, they realize the money that may be lost in tax revenues (through federal ownership) is made up by the boost to the economy in having these public lands. Tourism and recreation are good producers."
Beyond that, there is the sense of freedom that public lands extend, Wilkinson said.
"It's a great gift to all of us that we can just pull our cars over and take a hike or a picnic -- or pull out a fishing rod, go over a ridge and find that trout stream you know is there," he said.
"Public lands are the ultimate open space, that everyone out here understands we have to have if we are going to keep our sense of being western."
Colorado Milestones, which appears Tuesdays, is part of a yearlong project by the Denver Rocky Mountain News, NEWS4 and the Colorado Historical Society. Digital and print copies of historical images available at the Colorado Historical Society (303) 866-2305.
On TV: Sunday at 10 p.m.: Colorado History: A hundred years ago, visionaries offered predictions for the coming century. Some came true, but others didn't.
August 17, 1999
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