By Lillian Ross

The mysteries whisper on the wind along the Highway of Legends in the southeastern corridor of the Sangre de Cristo mountains. Just where is that lost gold vein that supposedly rendered nuggets so rich and so large that a 19th century miner could live off a single one for a year?

And what ever happened to Juan Humana and his band of conquistadors, who disappeared near the Purgatoire River in 1594 and were never seen alive again?

No, you won't learn the answers to these and other mysteries in this region by driving the Highway of Legends, but you will have an opportunity to see some amazing scenery and geologic formations.

Two of the best-known volcanic mountains in Colorado are the Spanish Peaks, which never leave your sight as you drive this 82-mile scenic and historic byway. The legend attributed to the peaks seems to make sense. Originally called Wahatoya, meaning "breasts of the Earth," it was believed that the peaks rose where the land was furnished with rain, thereby giving sustenance to all life.

The Highway of Legends (paved and passable year-round) begins in Walsenburg. Drive south from Denver on Interstate 25, through Colorado Springs and Pueblo. Go west on Colorado 160, which joins I-25 in Walsenburg.

Just outside town, you'll reach Lathrop State Park, offering its 1,000 acres to fishermen, rock climbers and snowmobilers (snow conditions permitting).

Straight ahead looms the dramatic Sangre de Cristo mountain range. When you reach Colorado 12, head south. You'll pass through the tiny farming community of LaVeta, which draws its lifeblood from the Cuchara River.

From here, you'll begin to experience geological history still in the making. The Goemmer Butte juts 500 feet skyward. The formation is called a "plug" or "neck."

Then more vertical landforms send spires toward the heavens. Profile Rock is the first "stock" or "dike" you'll encounter, followed closely by another formation and another legend — Devil's Staircase. This one deals with the interaction of the mountain's demons and deities. Early American Indians believed the devil made his home at the tops of the peaks.

After you cross the Cuchara River, you'll come to a massive rock rampart called the Dakota Wall, following the road on the right. This formation, however, isn't volcanic. It's a sedimentary rock cropping warped by the mountain uplift of the Sangre de Cristos.

The town of Cuchara is experiencing a flurry of real estate development spawned by second-home buyers eager to enjoy the recreation afforded by the Cuchara Ski Valley.

At the summit of Cuchara Pass, you'll have a clear view into New Mexico and the Raton Mesa country, to the south. As you head down the pass, you'll parallel the headwaters of the north fork of the Purgatoire River and pass through the small town of Stonewall. The New Elk Mine, which you'll see a few miles down the road, is one of only two working coal mines in the area.

The Hispanic culture in this region is evident as you pass many adobe structures in the small towns along Colorado 12.

Near Cokedale, you'll notice hundreds of old coking ovens, a testament to the area's coal-mining history.

Just before you emerge from the Highway of Legends, you'll pass the Trinidad State Recreation Area, now bundled up for winter outings.

In Trinidad, take some time to browse through the many antiques shops in the downtown area, and the Corazon Gallery, with exhibits by numerous artists.

For your return trip to Denver, head north on I-25.

Lillian Ross is a free-lance writer who lives in Poncha Springs.